In a blink of an eye, it is already December, with just twenty days before Christmas, a celebration of Jesus Christ’s birthday with traditions of gift-giving, family gatherings, and beautiful decorations.
It is certainly a celebration enjoyed by children, with all the wonderful Christmas cookies and gifts under the Christmas tree. My 10-year-old grandson isn’t as excited as the 7-year-old, who keeps checking under the tree for more gifts.
This excitement is pretty universal as Santa delivers gifts around the world with his reindeer.
We usually celebrate Christmas with foods from other countries. This year we may pick German Christmas foods as we have done Korean and Mexican in the past.
In Germany, “Helligabent” is Christmas Eve, when the tree gets decorated, carols are sung, a special dinner is prepared, and gifts are opened.
December 25 is a public holiday and there are family gatherings, church, and just relaxing.
Stollen is a traditional Christmas bread filled with dried fruit, such as raisins and orange peel that has been soaked in brandy or rum. The bread is somewhat dense but not dry.
In the Pfalz region of Germany, cooks braise sauerkraut with onions, apples, seasonings, a touch of sugar, and a little of the region’s Riesling wine, creating a delightful accompaniment for juicy weisswurst or bratwurst.
Lebkuchen are traditional delicately spiced German molasses-ginger cookies.
Sauteed German Sausages with Bacon
and Apple Sauerkraut
Serves 6
Stanley Lobel
Food &Wine
1/4 cup vegetable oil
5 ounces thick-cut bacon, cut into 1-1/2 inch pieces
1 very large onion, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons dry white wine, such as Riesling
1 large sweet apple, such as Gala or Fuji-peeled, cored and cut into 1/2 – inch pieces
12 juniper berries
4 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 cup water
2-1/2 pounds sauerkraut — drained, rinsed, and squeezed dry, about 4 cups
12 German-style sausage, such as weisswurst or bratwurst
Grainy mustard, for serving
In a large, enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 2 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add the bacon and cook over moderately high heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crisp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper-towel-lined plate.
Add the onions to the casserole, cover partially and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally until very soft, about 20 minutes.
Increase the heat to moderately high. Add the wine, apple, juniper berries, bay leaves, sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and boil for 3 minutes. Add the water and the sauerkraut. Reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the apple is very tender, about 45 minutes.
In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Poke the sausages several times with a fork and cook them over moderate heat, turning several tomes until golden and heated through, about 8 minutes.
Spoon the sauerkraut onto a platter and arrange the sausages on top. Sprinkle the reserved bacon over the sausages and serve with mustard.
Lebkuchen
German Molasses-Ginger Cookies
Jeffrey Morgenthale
Food &Wine
Makes 18 cookies
1 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon white vinegar
4 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup almond flour
2 tablespoons minced candied orange peel
2 tablespoons minced candied lemon peel
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 cup vegetable shortening. at room temperature
1/2 cup unsulfured molasses
1/3 cup blanched whole almonds
2-1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
5 tablespoons whole milk
In a small bowl, stir the cream and vinegar together and let stand until thickened, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In a medium bowl, whisk the all-purpose flour with the almond flour, candied orange and lemon peels, cinnamon, cloves, allspice, baking soda, nutmeg, and salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, beat the brown sugar with the shortening and molasses at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the thickened cream and beat until smooth. Add the dry ingredients and beat at low speed just to combine.
Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Working in 2 batches, using a 2 ounce ice cream scoop or 1/4-cup measure, scoop the dough into mounds on the prepared sheets, spacing them 3 inches apart.
Place 3 whole almonds in a star pattern on top of each cookie and, with the palm of your hand, gently flatten each mound slightly.
Bake the cookies for about 15 minutes, until lightly browned; rotate the baking sheets for top to bottom and front to back halfway through baking.
Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets for 10 minutes, then transfer to a rack and let cool completely.
In a small, wide bowl, whisk confectioners’ sugar with the milk until smooth. Dip the top of each cookie with the glaze, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Transfer the cookies to a rack and let stand until the glaze hardens, about 10 minutes.
Email Audrey Wilson at audreywilson808@gmail.com.
